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1 Module 1 of 8 · Savings timeline calculator

Getting Mortgage-Ready

If you’re one to three years away from buying, this is the module that pays off the most. Lenders look at three things — your credit, your debts, and your cash — and every one of them can be improved with time. This module turns “someday” into a plan with dates on it, so that when you do talk to a lender, you’re the borrower they want.

Case study · Rosa and Theo · Stop 1 of 8

Meet Rosa and Theo. They earn $75,000 a year between them, rent a two-bedroom apartment for $1,400 a month and would like to buy in about two years. Theo has a $350 car payment, and neither of them had looked at a credit report in years. The course follows the numbers they used at each step, so you can run the same steps on yours.

By the end of this lesson, you’ll know:
✓ The three things every lender checks, and what “ready” looks like for each
✓ Which credit moves raise your score fastest — and which ones quietly hurt it
✓ How to lower your debt-to-income ratio without getting a raise
✓ How much cash you really need (it’s more than the down payment) and how long it will take to save
✓ What to do — and avoid — in the 60 days before you apply

What lenders actually check

Their first step was a plain inventory: what would a lender see if they applied today?

Every mortgage decision comes down to three questions: will you pay on time, can you afford the payment, and do you have the cash to close? Underwriters call these credit, capacity and cash.

Credit
Your score sets your interest rate and your mortgage insurance price. Your history shows whether you pay on time.
Capacity
Your debt-to-income ratio (DTI) and how stable your income is — usually two years in the same line of work.
Cash
Down payment, closing costs and reserves — money left over after closing — all documented with bank statements.
The good news
None of these are fixed. With a year or two of lead time, most buyers can move all three in the right direction.

Credit: what actually moves your score

Rosa pulled all three reports. Two matched; the third listed a store card she had never opened. She disputed it, the bureau investigated within the usual 30 days, and the account came off. With that fixed, both their scores sat around 720.

Scores are built from five ingredients. They don’t carry equal weight, so put your effort where it counts.

Payment history · about 35%
The biggest factor. A single payment 30+ days late can knock a good score down sharply and stays on your report for seven years. Set up autopay for at least the minimum on every account.
Amounts owed · about 30%
Mostly your credit card utilization: balances divided by limits. Keep each card under 30% — under 10% is better. This is the fastest lever, because it updates as soon as a lower balance reports.
Length of history · about 15%
Older accounts help. Don’t close your oldest cards, even if you rarely use them.
New credit · about 10%
Each application can cost a few points. Pause new cards, store financing and car loans in the year before you buy.
Credit mix · about 10%
The least important factor. Not worth opening accounts to improve it.

Pull your reports from all three bureaus for free at AnnualCreditReport.com and dispute anything wrong — a late payment that wasn’t late, or an account that isn’t yours, can cost you more than any other single thing.

Starting from a lower score, like Ben? Begin with the two biggest factors: autopay on every account so nothing is late again, then card balances under 30% of each limit.
A note on minimum scores

In November 2025, Fannie Mae dropped its hard 620 minimum for loans run through its automated underwriting system, letting the system weigh your whole file instead. FHA loans allow 3.5% down with a 580 score.

That doesn’t make your score matter less. It still sets your rate and your mortgage insurance cost, and many lenders keep their own minimums. A practical target: 620+ for the most options, 740+ for the best pricing.

Lowering your DTI without a raise

Theo’s car loan still had about $11,000 to go, too much to clear before they bought. So their rule became simple: no new monthly payments.

Lenders calculate DTI from your minimum monthly payments, not your balances. That changes which debts are worth attacking first.

01 Pay off loans that are almost done. A car loan with $4,000 left at $350/month frees the whole $350 once it’s gone. Putting the same $4,000 toward a large card balance might lower its minimum by only $40–$80.
02 Don’t add a payment. At around 6.5%, a $500/month car payment can cut what you qualify for by roughly $75,000–$80,000.
03 Ask how student loans will be counted. Rules differ by loan type, especially on income-driven plans. The answer can swing your DTI by hundreds of dollars a month.
04 Document all your income. Overtime, bonuses and side income usually need a two-year history before a lender will count them.

Example: $5,500/month gross income with $660/month in debts leaves about $1,705/month for housing under a 43% back-end limit. Paying off a $350/month car loan raises that to $2,055 — enough to support roughly $55,000 more in mortgage at 6.5%.

Rosa and Theo’s numbers

$6,250 gross a month × 43% = $2,688 allowed for all debts. Minus Theo’s $350 car payment, that leaves $2,338 for housing. A new $500 car payment would cut it to $1,838.

Cash: more than the down payment

Their first instinct was to save for a down payment. Based on what similar homes sell for near them, they set a working target of $160,000, and the cash goal came out bigger than they expected.

Your savings goal has four parts. Most buyers only plan for the first one.

Down Down payment — 0% to 20% depending on the loan (Module 2 covers the tiers and assistance programs).
2–5% Closing costs — lender, title and escrow fees, plus prepaid taxes and insurance.
Reserve Reserves — some loans require one or more months of payments left in the bank after closing. Even when not required, you want an emergency cushion.
Move Moving and first-month costs — movers, utility deposits and the things an empty house needs. Often a few thousand dollars.

Keep a clean paper trail: lenders review your last two months of bank statements, and any large deposit that isn’t payroll will need a documented source. Money from family usually needs a signed gift letter. Cash kept outside a bank is hard to use.

$8,000$4,800
Down payment (5%) $8,000Closing costs (3%) $4,800Cushion (1%) $1,600Total $14,400
Figure 1. Rosa and Theo’s cash goal for a $160,000 home, using the calculator’s assumptions below. The down payment is just over half of it.
Try it: savings timeline calculator
Start with
$300,000
$100k$800k
5%
0%20%
$5,000
$0$100k
$800
$0$5,000
$27,000
total cash goal
$22,000
still to save
2 yrs 4 mo
time to goal at this pace
To be ready in 24 months, save about $917/month.

Cash goal = down payment + 3% for closing costs + 1% cushion for reserves and moving. Down payment assistance can lower it — see Module 2.

Every module in the full course has a calculator like this one, set up with Rosa and Theo’s numbers.See the course →

Your mortgage-ready timeline
  1. 24–36 months out: pull all three credit reports, dispute errors, set up autopay, and open a separate savings account with an automatic monthly transfer.
  2. 12–18 months out: bring card balances under 30% (then 10%), pay off small installment loans, and avoid new credit.
  3. About 6 months out: talk to a lender for a pre-qualification and credit review — many will tell you exactly which change would raise your score the most.
  4. 60 days before applying: no new credit, no large unexplained deposits, no job change if you can avoid it, and keep your down payment in one account.
  5. After pre-approval: no new car, no furniture on credit, no co-signing until after closing — lenders often re-check your credit right before closing.
NowReports pulled, error disputed. Savings account opened with $3,000 and an automatic $600 a month.
Months 1–12Card balances under 10%. No new credit, no new payments.
About month 13A lender conversation and a credit review.
About month 19Cash goal of $14,400 reached at $600 a month.
Figure 2. Rosa and Theo’s version of the timeline above. The calculator puts them about 1 year 7 months from their cash goal at their current pace.
📝
Worksheet: Mortgage-Ready Plan
Credit snapshot, debt payoff order, savings target and your 60-day pre-application checklist.
Download PDF
Where Rosa and Theo landed
Credit score, error removed~720
Room for housing at 43%$2,338
Cash goal, ~19 months away$14,400

Next: they ask a lender for a pre-approval, and the answer is a much bigger number than they expected.

Key takeaways

—Lenders check credit, capacity and cash — all three can be improved with a year or two of lead time
—Card utilization is the fastest credit lever; late payments are the most damaging
—DTI uses monthly payments, not balances — paying off a nearly finished loan can free more buying power than chipping at a big one
—Your cash goal is down payment + closing costs + a cushion, not the down payment alone
—In the 60 days before you apply, keep your finances boring: no new credit and no unexplained deposits

Quick knowledge check

Which credit score factor carries the most weight?

Payment history — about 35% of a typical score.

What credit card utilization should you aim for before applying?

Under 30% of each card’s limit, ideally under 10%.

True or false: lenders calculate DTI from your total debt balances.

False — they use your minimum monthly payments.

Besides the down payment, name two things your cash goal should cover.

Closing costs, reserves, and moving or first-month costs.

Why should you avoid large unexplained deposits before applying?

Lenders review recent bank statements and will ask you to document where any non-payroll deposit came from.

What happens next

Next, a lender says yes to a much bigger number.

Module 2 is where Rosa works out what’s actually comfortable, and the rest of the course follows them all the way to the keys.

The full course includes
  • 8 written modules, from affordability and the real cost of owning to offers, inspection and closing day
  • A calculator and a printable worksheet in every module
  • Free year-one bonus: 7 lessons, 9 tools and the Year-One Binder for after you move in

$47 one-time · lifetime access · 30-day money-back guarantee

Sources: CFPB, Freddie Mac, Fannie Mae · How we research

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